Surf Warrior (Steves Heres How 2!)

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Almost 15 years after a shark attack changed her life forever and inspired millions, Bethany Hamilton is giving fans a peek into her life now, including her new role as a mother of two. Though the two had planned on becoming parents, Hamilton found out she was pregnant with her first son Tobias in earlier than they had expected.

I think a lot of women struggle with it, so I thought it was really important to share the truth of that. And I think a lot of women deal with that. Hamilton continued to compete after Tobias was born and is now looking forward to getting back on her board almost 6 weeks after welcoming his little brother Wesley in March Her drive is what makes the title of the documentary fitting.

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When she was just 13, Hamilton was surfing in Kauai, Hawaii when a foot tiger shark bit off her left arm and she was rushed to the hospital. After the attack, there was only one thing Hamilton wanted — to get back on her surfboard. Through a brief recap of the ordeal in the film, you get a glimpse at the intensity of the media storm that surrounded the young surfer after she became a household name — and the troubles that came with it. I just wanted to be a normal teenager out surfing and being with my friends. It was so much fun! The instruction was great, as always.

Jameson Riser and Melinda Moree were the instructors for our group, and were really good at helping us in our attempts to master the admittedly shitty surf.

Bethany Hamilton Says She 'Had a Lot of Fears' About Motherhood 15 Years After Shark Attack

However, I always maintain you can have a good time and learn stuff regardless of conditions. In fact, paddling in challenging conditions makes you that much better on nicer days. We stayed out till we were all pretty thrashed. The waves were choppy and droppy. Before class, I watched the few board surfers out there braving the rough conditions.

Boards and bodies were flying.

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Almost no one was getting rides. Rather than try to catch the waves on the outside I decided to spend the day playing in the aftershock. Out and in, out and in, catching a few short rides and getting dumped a fair amount. Lots of face enemas, but fun and a really good workout. Finally I was getting tired so I started waiting for something resembling a good ride before boldly springing into action.

surf warrior steves heres how 2 Manual

It was a good day for boat control. That night we regrouped for another fantastic potluck — yum! The bar keeps getting raised. Barbecued ribs, yummy soups, fruit, bruschetta, salads, desserts, all kinds of delights for hungry stomachs. Great to see the fun and excitement with everyone out in the waves shredding it up. I think almost everyone got out for some wave time! Before I left, I made time to drive out to Cape Flattery and take the short hike out to the tip of the cape where I was rewarded with amazing scenery and a view of Tatoosh Island.

Meet the crew

It was great to stretch my legs after sitting in a kayak all day the day before and before the long drive to Vancouver, WA, my next stop. I really enjoy this surf camp. Days One and Three are unofficial paddle days; some of the instructors come along and are available for questions and a little coaching but the official day for instruction happens on Saturday.

When I saw at the waves Sunday morning conditions had improved drastically. The waves looked small and well-regulated and the sun was making a fitful appearance.


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I would have liked to have stuck around but duty calls.

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